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Linger over ‘Venezia,’ then fire up the stove

The book is a work of art; and the recipes aren’t bad, either

By Kim Davaz

Tessa Kiros opens her newest cookbook with a love letter to the city of Venice, in particular, its food. When you think of the food of Venice, think fresh, fresh, fresh, especially when it comes to fish; and local, including a celebratory glass of bright sparkling Prosecco to begin any meal.

“Venezia” is Kiros’ third cookbook published by Andrews McMeel, following the same format and size as “Apples for Jam” and “Falling Cloudberries” (a Gourmet magazine cookbook club selection). The books make a pretty and useful trio.

“Venezia” is beautiful from the time you pull it off the shelf, from the cover (with its actual cloth book cover impressed with the book’s title) to the cocoa brown endpapers to the golden-edged pages: You know you’re getting a book that is something special, with attention paid to the details.

Even if you don’t cook, the photos by Manos Chatzikonstantis are well worth the price of the book. The city, from great piazzas to hidden corners, is, of course, the star of “Venezia.” Whether in black-and-white or glorious color; or of the city, people or food, Chatzikonstantis’ photos will draw you in to the magic that is Venice.

The recipe for Risotto de Asparagi e Scampi (risotto with asparagus and langoustines, though you can substitute shrimp) reminds us that Americans get their raw ingredients in a whole different way than Italians do. In the recipe, you’re asked to peel and clean the scampi, keeping the shells and heads to make broth. Here you don’t often find shrimp sold with the heads on, but the shells alone will make an adequate broth.

When Kiros includes peperoncino, she means the very hot, dried red peppers (flakes or whole), not the pickled spicy peppers that come in a jar.

One of the more unusual offerings is a recipe for liver and onions, and if you like such things - as I do - the dish is fragrant with sage and white wine, and served with polenta.

Also a little off the beaten path, Risotto al Latte is made with milk instead of broth. Think of it as a savory rice pudding, a comfort food that would be as welcome at lunch or dinner as it would be at brunch.

All in all, “Venezia” is a book to linger over, savoring the beauty that is Venice.

(And as if spending a great deal of time in Venice isn’t enough of a luxury, Kiros lives in Tuscany with her family.)

La Peperonata, or bell peppers, from the chapter on “Contorni,” or side dishes, is a Venetian classic. Some recipes add eggplant or tomatoes, or omit the anchovies and capers. It’s good warm or cold, on toasted bread or, while perhaps unorthodox, mixed with penne pasta.

La Peperonata

La Peperonata

• 1 red and 1 yellow large pepper (about 2 1/4 pounds in total)
• About 5 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 white onion, chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, chopped
• About 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
• 3 to 4 anchovy fillets in oil, drained
• Small handful of small capers in vinegar, drained
• 2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Rinse and dry peppers, then remove the seeds and stems and cut the flesh into nice rustic chunks.

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet that has a lid. Saute the onion until soft and turning golden here and there.

Add the peppers and cook on a strong simmer until they are going well. Add a tiny amount of salt (you will be adding anchovies later.)

Stir in the garlic, cover with the lid, and simmer for about 15 mintues, until the peppers have surrendered their firmness - a bit gold in places is good.

Stir with a wooden spoon occasionally to check that nothing is sticking, but there should be enough liquid created from the peppers.

Splash in the vinegar and simmer, uncovered, for another 10 minutes, or until it has all joined in a syrupy way in the bottom of the skillet and looks good.

Add the anchovies to a bare space in the sauce in the bottom of the skillet, mashing them to dissolve, then mix well and simmer for a few minutes more.

Add the capers, parsley and some black pepper and mix well before removing from the heat.

Serves 6.

Kim Davaz writes a biweekly cookbook review column for The Register-Guard.

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